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Recipes – № 5

Kürbiscremesuppe

Pumpkin Bisque

Sometimes the simplest recipe is the hardest.

Pumpkins and winter squash make great purees and soups and not surprisingly, the world is awash in recipes. Some use the acidity of apples or even orange juice to balance the flat sweetness of a butternut squash and others complement that sweetness with exotic spices borrowed from the cuisines of tropical Asia. I once had a spectacular pumpkin soup, in an airplane of all places, when I got bumped into business class on an overcrowded flight to Germany. My 6’6” frame appreciated the extra legroom but the soup left a much deeper impression. Despite feeling like a stowaway I shamelessly asked for seconds. And then thirds. It tasted different, more old-school, like pumpkin had come home to France after many years in the tropics. (Actually pumpkins originated in the New World but my taste buds don’t think that way.) There was no white-aproned, winter squash hacking cook in the galley that I could ask for an ingredient list, so I’ve spent a few fall seasons trying out various recipes that I thought might approach it. Unfortunately nothing came close and even a recipe by the great Paul Bocuse, which had me bake and serve the soup right inside a giant pumpkin, was an over-cheesed and over-spiced flop. I never forgot about my quest though and the other day I happened on a little side note in a fancy German cookbook describing something you might call a pumpkin bisque. It relied on white wine for acidity and fruitiness. No spices, no cheese. I tried it out, made a couple of tweaks, and voila! We’re in business.

Serves 8 as an appetizer

A 2 lbs skin-on wedge of pumpkin. Pick a flavorful orange-fleshed variety that isn’t overly sweet, such as fairytale, jarrahdale, marina di Chioggia or porcelain doll pumpkin. It should be around 1 lbs 10 oz without the seeds and with the skin cut off. Though I haven't tried it yet, you could probably also use some of the not-too-sweet winter squash varieties such as red kuri squash (no need to peel), green, brown or red kabocha squash (peel off any skin that isn't red), tuffy squash or orange or blue hubbard squash. 

3 Tbsp diced shallots

1.5 Tbsp butter

3/4 cup of dry or off-dry Riesling or Grüner Veltliner. You could use other white wines too but stay away from anything oaked.

5 cups chicken broth, preferably homemade

1/2 cup plus 2 Tbsp of heavy cream

Sea salt

 

Roughly dice the pumpkin wedge. Warm the butter in a large pot over medium heat and sauté the pumpkin and shallots for 3 minutes. Season with salt and add the white wine and then the chicken broth. Bring to a boil and simmer uncovered until the pumpkin is soft (30-40 minutes). Add cream and puree in a blender until very smooth. Taste for salt and serve with some crusty bread.

Recipe adapted from Teubner's Deutsche Küche (German).

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