Recipes – № 49
Sautéed Fiddlehead Ferns
When I first toyed around with fiddlehead ferns in the kitchen, I treated them very delicately. I was probably inspired by their classical instrument shape, as well as springtime compatriots like asparagus or English peas. I blanched them and served them in salads or dressed them lightly with olive oil, salt and lemon. These approaches were quite stunning visually, but if I’m honest, the flavor was decidedly blah. I realized I had been treating these grassy-tasting curls with too much respect. Time for a hot frying pan, some anchovies for background umami, and lemon zest plus mint for brightness. That approach is an Italian classic with baby artichokes and it's a big winner with fiddlehead ferns too. It turns out they like it rough. At least a bit.
Serves 4 as a side or appetizer or side
1 ½ pints fiddlehead ferns
8 oil-packed anchovy filets. Or 4 salt-packed anchovies, soaked in water for 5 minutes and deboned
Zest from one small, organic lemon
2/3 cup fresh mint leaves (around 2 ½ to 3 Tbsp chopped)
3 Tbsp olive oil
Rinse the fiddlehead ferns in water and rub off the brown silk. Heat a skillet over medium heat and add the olive oil and anchovies. Fry until the anchovies are mostly dissolved, around 1 minute (the pan will splatter a bit). Add the fiddlehead ferns and some salt and sauté for around 8 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the ferns start to soften. Meanwhile, wash and chop the mint and add to the pan along with the lemon zest. Stir, taste for salt and serve.
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