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Recipes – № 44

Spring Brassicas with Green Garlic Bagna Càuda

Raw brassica vegetables with a warm, savory dip

A bagna càuda, literally hot bath, is a sauce originally from Piedmont in northern Italy. Made up mainly of anchovies, garlic, butter and olive oil, it is rich and savory and it’s typically served with vegetables as a warm dip. Bagna càuda is a heavenly match for crisp, iced members of the brassica family: think radishes, cauliflower, turnips or broccoli. These vegetables are best eaten raw in the spring when they’re at their most delicate. In this recipe I’m creating a springtime twist on this fall or winter classic by substituting green garlic for the regular garlic cloves in Alice Waters’ bagna càuda recipe.

Serves 4 as a light lunch or appetizer

1 large bunch French breakfast radishes or similar amount of other tender radishes, cauliflower, young turnips, broccoli or broccoli rabe (or a mix thereof)

1 whole green garlic or wild garlic stem. Use both the bulb and the green parts. If the garlic is so young that no bulb has formed yet, use 1.5 stems. Alternatively, use two garlic scapes.

Lemon zest from 1 organic lemon

10 oil-packed anchovy filets. Alternatively 5 salt-packed anchovies, soaked in water for 5 minutes and deboned

6 Tbsp butter

1/3 cup olive oil

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

Fine sea salt to taste

Baguette or other crusty bread for serving

 

Create a hot water bath by placing a small, heatproof mixing bowl (stainless steel or tempered glass) into a small saucepan filled partially with water. Bring the water to a gentle boil.

Meanwhile wash and finely chop the green garlic and the anchovies. Zest the lemon. Combine butter, olive oil, garlic, anchovies and lemon zest in the mixing bowl in the water bath and heat up until the butter is melted and the garlic has lost its sharpness. Add black pepper and salt to taste, turn off the heat and keep warm in the water bath.

Wash and trim the vegetables, cut them into attractive bite-sized chunks (if necessary) and place them on a bed of crushed ice.

Transfer the bagna càuda into a warmed serving bowl if you like and serve everything family-style with freshly sliced bread. Both the vegetables and the bread are excellent for dipping into the sauce.

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